The St. Mary's River was named after the old French fort,
Forte St. Marie, which was built by the French in 1654,
at the lower end of
Sherbrooke Village. The fort was
built, ostensibly, to protect the French fishermen and
fur traders along the coast, but mostly Forte St. Marie
was built to protect the French settlers who needed to
come in and get their winter's supply of fish. The
French didn't remain in Forte St. Marie very long. Five
years later the British came and chased them out and the
River has been predominately held and settled by the
British since 1669.
Some
notable people came to fish the river. One of the sports
celebrities from the United States who loved fishing the St.
Mary's was the great Babe Ruth. His first trip here
introduced him to McKenna's Pictou Twist chewing tobacco for
which he acquired a taste. Babe Ruth's career might have
been considerably shortened had not one of the local guides,
Dan MacIntosh, pulled him out of the Stewart Pool early in
May just as he was going by the end of the boat.
Above the tide, the river flows 16 kms roughly north to
Melrose where it branches into the East and West
branches. Its headwaters originate in five separate
counties, namely Guysborough, Antigonish, Pictou, and
even parts of Hants and Halifax Counties.
The original settlers along the River did not mostly come by
water. They came overland from Pictou County and followed
down both branches of the river, each generation moving
successively a little bit further down the river, till
eventually they settled the
Sherbrooke area.
At one time, the river carried a fair portion of the
commerce of Nova Scotia. Beautiful, two and three and even
four masted sailing ships, carrying cargoes of lumber,
mostly to the West Indies and the eastern seaboard of the
United States, returning with cargoes of coal, salt,
molasses, and odd bit of rum. Some ships were built at
Sherbrooke, Sonora, and at St. Mary's River, and they
eventually found their way all over the world.
Around 1930, sail gave way to steam and the long lumber gave
way to pulp wood. The ships that began to come in for the
pulp cargoes were mostly of Norwegian registry. Pulpwood was
shipped down the river, mostly to the eastern seaboard of
the United States and to Europe. Some of these ships had
quite a precarious job getting up and down a narrow crooked
channel sometimes these ships would go over the bar at
Sonora with one inch to spare between the keel and the sand.
They would wait for the swell to rise and then they would
try to ride out over the top of the swell.
The old method of cutting logs and the pulp wood involved
piling the logs in the woods or in brows along the river;
these were then hauled by horse and sleigh in the winter and
piled along the banks to wait the ice going out in the
Spring. Roads were cut for double teams, stumps were cut
down, the wood was hauled on frozen ground protecting the
forest floor.
After the ice went out in the Spring, the logs and pulpwood
were driven down river. It was quite a thing to see some of
these old log drivers coming down on the big, big logs. Pulp
drivers usually tried to get on a big crooked hemlock that
didn't roll too much. After the logs got to Sherbrooke they
were processed at one of there several sawmills mostly run
by steam and water wheels. They had hard working crews,
inveterate tobacco-chewers because they couldn't smoke in
the mills. They worked long hard days with no coffee breaks,
no union and low pay, most still seemed to enjoy life, make
a living, and raise a family.
Environmental control and conservation of salmon a top
priority today, is not new. In this district, prior to it
becoming a municipality, the top man was the Squire and he
had appointees who carried out various duties. Thus, around
the year 1870, just prior to the Municipality of St. Mary's
being formed, the Squire passed a resolution prohibiting the
spearing of salmon on Thursday. This was their means of
conservation, one day per week they could not spear!
In the early 1900's some well-known anglers started coming
to the St. Mary's River for the
salmon fishing. They came
from all over Nova Scotia and New Brunswick and parts of
England. At that time, when they first started coming salmon
fishermen would get on a slow train in Halifax and sit on
that for maybe half a day to Antigonish. They would then get
off the train hire a horse and buggy and drive to Sherbrooke
or Melrose or Waternish to go fishing. These folks were
dedicated!
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